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Posted: Aug/29/2005 4:10 PM PST
I planted this rose in July this ear, and this is what it looks like now. I have been watering it since it has been so dry to make sure it gets established. I planted it according to all the directions and advice on rose sites. It was blooming then and is classified as a rebloomer. Is this normal for a (young) rose to act this way at this time of year or is it dying? |
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Posted: Aug/29/2005 4:55 PM PST
Some plants just don't like transplanting; I've had roses that looked like that but survived. Roses really don't like to be transplanted when they are flowering. If any new growth is surviving, it's probably o.k. However, that doesn't look good to me. It looks like the roots might be dying. Did Ontario get a good long freeze last Winter, to kill all the grubs? Are you sure you didn't bury the root crown? Scrape back the mulch and if necessary the soil until you can just see some of the root ball. Push into the surrounding soil with a stick at least as long as the rootball, checking for air pockets. If there are any, push the soil in hard. Build a berm around the rose; dig a ditch about two inches deep about four to six inches from the plant. Water very generously. Examine the remaining leaves for signs of infestation; wipe them down with a dilute solution of dish-soap if you see any bugs, with rubbing alcohol if you see white or black spots on underside of the leaves, then wipe off the alcohol with a dilute solution of dish-soap. Do this AFTER the sun has left the area, so you don't burn the leaves. Avoid getting water on the leaves. Mulch a lot for the winter. Good luck |
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Posted: Aug/29/2005 7:17 PM PST
Bluebelle: It may be stress from being planted in the heat, July was a really hot month. Here in the north we are supposed to bury the crown or they will die in winter. I found out the hard way. I killed two before I found that out. If you cut it back it will have less to feed and may come back. Maybe your local garden centre will be able to give you better advice pertinent to your area. Good luck. |
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Posted: Aug/29/2005 11:35 PM PST
Thanks for the info. Actually, if you think it is dying, I'm just going to return it to the garden centre. It's guaranteed until Oct. 31st. |
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Posted: Aug/30/2005 1:00 AM PST
 [COLOR=green] It sure doesn't look good BB. I recommend taking it back an getting yer money back. I like buying BareRoot Roses In the spring. If ye do them right and fertilize them properly, ye'll have some great rose bushes. I can get ye info on that over the LONG winter (LOL ) if ye would like. Did ye fertilize this one at all??? Good Luck!!  [/COLOR]
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Posted: Aug/30/2005 5:12 AM PST
Bury the crown? Wow. I'm in New England, not exactly a tropical paradise, and we never do that. [Well, yes, we do, and the rose dies.] But usually we have to heavily mulch it with compost for the Winter; bark chips don't work because they don't rot. Do you clip the flowers and transplant, or leave the plant in the pot until they die back? Anyhow, thanks for correcting my bad advice. |
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Posted: Aug/30/2005 11:04 AM PST
Jgardner - if you don't bury the root crown you're leaving the roots exposed. You don't want to bury too much past the root crown as you can cause rotting/disease. or Zones 7 - 8, plant grafted roses so their bud unions are at the soil line. Do the same for own-root roses. For Zones 5 - 6, plant grafted roses so their bud unions are the width of three fingers below the soil line. For own-root roses, plant the root crown at the soil line or slightly below. For Zone 4 and colder, plant grafted roses the width of your hand below the soil line. Own root roses (those that will survive these winter temperatures) can be planted at the soil line. While holding onto the rose, fill the hole with garden soil. Use a bucket or garden hose to water in the soil around the roots. This is important to remove any major air pockets left by the filling process, and ensure good root/soil contact. Dont let the rose settle deeper into the hole than you intend for your hardiness zone. [Hint: As a technique, secure the rose with plastic tape or twine to the stake laid across the hole. This helps prevent it from sinking into the hole as you water-in the soil.] After watering-in, apply a solution of rooting stimulator to the root zone. (If you added synthetic Vitamin B-1 to your root soaking solution in Step 2, use it here.) Do not apply the rooting stimulator until after you have watered-in the rose. Doing otherwise could burn the roots. Mound garden soil up around the exposed canes, but leave the top two bud eyes exposed. This will protect the rose from any severe late frosts until the roots develop. (It also signals the rose to "get started doin its thing." ) After the bud eyes swell and the first few new leaflets appear, remove the soil from around the canes and form a watering well around the base of the rose. |
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Posted: Aug/30/2005 6:04 PM PST
I planted a rose this summer at about the same time and it looks like that one too. It is a Barbra Streisand hybrid tea - when I went to ask questions athe nursery where I bought it all their roses are looking the same and I was told it's just the season's end. We have had some very cool nights recently, so I suppose it's possible. This nursery is one of the area's best... I am new at this rose thing and have already killed two by not mulching through the upstate NY winter, and I am so enamored of this rose I DON"T WANT IT TO DIE!!! I will check my root ball to be sure it is not buried- it has some new leaf shoots, so I don't think it's dying. Here's hoping. Now if I can just get my leaf blower/mulcher working I'll be able to make my own leaf mulch!! |
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Posted: Aug/31/2005 4:59 AM PST
I am certain that roses do not particularly like to be transplanted, unlike hosta and rhubarb. |
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Posted: Aug/31/2005 11:06 AM PST
I transplanted a couple in June. It was either transplant them and hope they live or not transplant them and watch them die for sure. Amazingly enough they both did fairly well. HOWEVER, these were done in June, before the temps got too hot. Last year I transplanted one in July and it looked like the one pictured. It looked awful. I thought it was dead but figured I'd wait a season and see. I cut it back almost to the ground. Mulched it and watered frequently. Looked like a few twigs sticking out of the ground  BUT, this spring it got a few leaves, then a few more, then more. Now it's as tall as the rest and bloomed just as good. Don't give up. Just cut it back, keep it watered, mulch well for winter. You might get a surprise next year. Attachments:  |
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