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Posted: Apr/02/2009 6:54 PM PST
Don't know the real name, but around here we call it cheat grass, and I have patches of it appearing in my lawn area. (Not that my lawn is great anyway!) But we are trying to make it nice. How do I get rid of cheat grass? Help anybody? |
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Posted: Apr/04/2009 7:39 AM PST
Sorry, I dont know what cheat grass is. Got any pics of it by chance? |
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Posted: Apr/04/2009 10:06 AM PST
Real name is bromus tectorum. I'll see if I can add picture. Don't want to use a strong herbicide, as it is in our back yard which is our dogs' yard! It's really kind of a hairy grass and very invasive and I want to stop it. If the snow ever disappears, maybe I will just try to dig it all out. Yuck! Attachments:  |
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Posted: Apr/05/2009 6:40 AM PST
Oh I see now. If there is not *alot of it, maybe the option of digging it out would be best. I agree with you about the pesticide thing because of the doggies. Yes, I have a doggie yard too, not mine, theres. Surely one of GG's grass-perts will answer soon and possible give you a better option. Lots of Luck. |
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Posted: Jun/07/2009 9:00 AM PST
Scientific name: Bromus tectorum L. Common names: Bronco Grass, Cheatgrass/Cheat Grass, Downy Brome, Downy Chess, Drooping Brome, Early Chess, June Grass, Military Chess 'Cheatgrass' got its name by the nature of this weed; when it starts to grow it looks like grass, but dies in about 6 to 8 weeks time...(you thought it was grass but you were cheated - it's a sticker weed.) Once it dies it's loaded with seeds and re-seed itself while these seeds act like poking stickers. It is miserable stuff because of the way it perpetuates itself crowding out native grasses and creates wildfire hazards. I've had pretty good luck pulling it by hand before it dies, so that the seeds stay on the weed and roots, stem, and seeds go into the trash bag. It probably should be composted, but I don't trust it to break down. After pulling, I add soil conditioner and compost to change the pH then plant strong healthy plants, herbs, or flowers. I still end up fighting cheatgrass, because it is on neighboring properties and so abundant in my area. GOOD LUCK with any game plan - it is an absolute battle!!! This is from the Colorado Weed Management Association http://www.cwma.org/nx_plants/cheatgrass.htm Lasting control of downy brome will require a combination of chemical control, physical control, vegetative suppression, and proper livestock management where land is grazed. This "cumulative stress" method will keep the plants constantly under stress, reducing their ability to flourish and spread. Also, a cumulative stress approach provides a level of redundancy in case one type of treatment is not implemented or proves to be ineffective (Carpenter and Murray 1998). This is from the Global Invasive Species Database http://www.issg.org/database/species/ecology.asp?s i=266&fr=1&sts= Management information Preventative measures: It is important to avoid disturbance caused by overgrazing, cultivation and frequent fires as they encourage invasion. Physical: Where infestation is light, burning is not recommended, however, hand pulling can be effective in these areas. Care must be taken to remove most of the root, or it will grow back. Treatment should be followed by re-seeding of perennials, or else B. tectorum and other weeds will re-establish in the newly disturbed area. Follow-up treatment is required. Biological: In North America, grasses, such as Crested Wheatgrass, have been planted to compete with B. tectorum. This has been successful in some cases. Integrated management: Mowing or cutting is not recommended. Burning and herbicide application are effective control measures, but to ensure selective control, they should be performed in early spring when non-target species are dormant. However B. tectorum fires can burn very hot and move very quickly so care should be taken (Beck pers. comm., in Carpenter et. al, 1999). Nutrition Bromus tectorum prefers potassium rich soil. Reproduction Bromus tectorum is self-pollinating. Seeds are dispersed by wind and animals. Lifecycle stages High temperatures and light intensities inhibit germination, however, seeds have been known to germinate following 11 years of storage under dry conditions. Once germination occurs, the roots develop quickly and are usually well developed by spring. Attachments:  |
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Posted: Jun/08/2009 3:02 AM PST
Thanks for the good info, O. |
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