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Posted: Sep/17/2007 7:17 PM PST
Hello, As the subject line says, I am a relative compost newbie, and could use any advice. We started our compost bin this spring -- it's a black plastic, covered bin with rows of ventilation holes at regular intervals (bought from Gardens Alive on sale). We add coffee grounds and veggie scraps on a daily basis and a few egg shells now and then. I also try to balance things out with dry leaves and dry grass clippings about 1/3 of the time. I am trying to keep things in proportion. It does not smell at all, so I figure things can't be all bad. I have turned it twice in 4 months (approx.). I watered it twice -- once at the start and once during a month-long drought. My questions are: 1. Does this sound like a good approach? 2. Does adding worms from my garden help? 3. When will I first be able to use the compost? and how can I tell if it is ready? (the bottom of the bin has a front panel that slides up) 4. What is the best use for compost, e.g. for new plantings? turning it into the soil in the spring? (or next fall?) Does it help to scratch it into the ground around established plants? Thanks for any advice or comments! Emily |
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Posted: Sep/17/2007 9:13 PM PST
Hi Emily, I recommend you get one at least one of two great books on the subject: Let it Rot!: The Gardener's Guide to Composting by Stu Campbell, and/or The Rodale Book of Composting: Easy Methods for Every Gardener by Grace Gershuny. Personally, I liked Let It Rot. It has much of the same information as the more formal Rodale book, but it was much more down to earth (pun intended, but true none the less) and fun to read. Heck, buy them both, and put the one you don't like into the compost pile. ;-) Both books cover the basic theory and practice of composting and present several different methods. There has been a lot written about every aspect of composting and a lot of science done as well. But the bottom line is that composting can be as easy or as hard, as simple or as complicated, as you want it to be. There are some basic guidelines which it sounds like you already are following, but eventually the goal is the same - to get the once living stuff back into the soil one way or another, and eventually it will decompose and be available to be used by other living things. You can use a bin or no bin; you can make it in one big batch, or build it as you go. You can chop everything and turn it twice a week to get compost in as little 2-3 weeks, or you can leave things in larger pieces and leave the whole pile alone and come back for it next season. It's up to you. To answer your questions: Yes, it sounds like a good approach. I use a LOT of compost and I personally turn mine every week so that I keep it coming as fast as I can make it. I also get a certain amount of satisfaction out of seeing steam come out of the pile, especially in August. But if you aren't in a hurry, there is no problem letting it sit there for months, even a year, and let nature take it's course. If the pile gets hot, then the worms will leave or die. But as long as the pile stays cool, the worms are a great idea. Based on your description of your bin, the worms should be fine. Your regular garden variety earthworm won't break down the waste as fast as some of the specialty worms, though. There is a process called vermicomposting that specifically uses worms called red wrigglers, or brandling worms, to break down waste, especially kitchen scraps. Check out Worms Eat My Garbage: How to Set Up & Maintain a Worm Composting System by Mary Appelhof. You can also search the web for vermicomposting bins too, if you're interested. The compost is done when 1) it is cool, 2) it is crumbly, 3) you can't recognize most things in the pile for what it once was (eggshells are a notable exception), 4) it's brown to black, and 5) should have a not-unpleasant, earthy smell to it. The more you have and use, the better. Established plants (yes, scratch it in), new plants, etc. It's all good.I use compost for everything from soil amendment, top/side dressings and mulching. But I have a lot of it. If you don't have much, then I would suggest using it as you would fertilizer, mixing it into the top 6-8 inches of soil when you plant. This will give you the most "bang for your buck". I hope you find this helpful. Good luck! Robert |
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Posted: Sep/18/2007 8:21 AM PST
Thanks Robert. That was one of the best explanations I have seen. My composter sounds just like yours Emily! |
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Posted: Sep/18/2007 9:00 AM PST
I was thinking the same thing as Mo. Great info, easy to understand, and confirms my laid-back composting practices. Thanks, Robert! We appreciate you taking the time for that long post. Do you type fast? 
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Posted: Sep/18/2007 11:57 AM PST
Wow, you are all very welcome. Like I say in my profile, I like to write as long as it's something about which I have knowledge and interest. Apparently I like to write "rotten" things. ;-) I type about 40-45 words per minute, but better than that, I learn from my mistakes. Before I clicked the post button on that one I copied everything. Sure enough, my session had timed out and I had to log in again. Luckily it was a matter of pasting and clicking Post again. :-) Composting was one of the aspects of gardening that I really took to. Above and beyond what it does for the plants, it just seems like the responsible thing to do. Thanks again for the positive responses. It made my day. :-) |
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Posted: Sep/18/2007 1:46 PM PST
I wondered if you were a daredevil willing to race the clock! |
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Posted: Sep/18/2007 5:27 PM PST
Robert, Thank you so much for the references and for your very thoughtful and helpful advice. I certainly appreciate you taking the time to write so much!  Composting is one of the simplest things I have ever done that has made me feel so great! Talk about a great return on investment...even before it ever gets into the soil! Thanks again, Emily |
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Posted: Sep/20/2007 4:39 AM PST
Hi Emily, coincidentally, another garden site has a two-part article on vermicomposting if you are interested. This link show you part II, but if you go into the article there is another link to part I which was last week. Take any spaces out of the url if there are any: http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/ Regards, Robert |
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