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Posted: Aug/12/2006 1:12 AM PST
I would like to put in a shade garden under a canopy of trees in my backyard. The ground is full of little tree roots. Does anyone know if I could get around it by planting little plants so I don't need big holes, and then adding a layer of compost or loam? How large of a root can I cut without killing a tree? Anyone? Treeman? |
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Posted: Aug/16/2006 7:46 PM PST
If they are large trees chopping a couple of little roots to make space for small plants shouldn't affect the trees too greatly. I think you may find the problem you will have is getting something to grow in amongst those roots without the tree roots sucking all the moisture and nutrients away from the smaller plants, especially if they are shallow rooted trees (eg. maple) |
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Posted: Aug/27/2006 7:13 PM PST
I have two large shade trees in my front yard, and I have planted ferns around one, and Hosta around the other, in between the roots. I do feed every 2 weeks during the summer. Marita |
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Posted: Aug/27/2006 8:58 PM PST
In general, how much soil can be added to make a planting bed within a tree's root zone? I've just removed sod in front of this Zelkova to make a new planting bed. I want to do a dry-stacked wall of flat rocks on the grass edge and fill in behind it with soil and compost, which would raise the planting bed about a foot. The wall would be 5-6 feet away from the trunk. The soil already slopes down to the grass, hard to tell in this overhead shot. |
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Posted: Aug/27/2006 10:55 PM PST
Sweetie.... a lot has made of adding soil over existing tree roots. The classic situation deals with construction grading where tons of soil are moved, with often way too much being added over the root system and around the trunk. This so called soil is usually just dirt.... often sub-soil that is compacted to keep it from settling later. Under these circumstances, aeration to the trees' roots is disrupted and often results in serious root damage that is often fatal. Tree roots need to respire.... to so they need access to atmospheric oxygen which infiltrates the soil through open pores. Dump dirt on top of it (I have seen up to 3+ feet) and then compact it to grade it and guess what. Air and water infiltration to the roots is completely blocked. In general 6 inches or less is usually OK if no compaction is done. Up to 12 inches ought to be done over several seasons to allow the tree's roots to adapt. Never add soil around the trunk. the root flare should remain at the surface. the trunk tissue above is not intended to be burried. Its natures way... its a different type of tissue than root tissue. As Ron indicates the tree's natural response will be send roots into the new soil placed over the old root system. This will negate the root competition advantage gained with the addition within a year or two. Rather than plastic I would use a good grade of landscape fabric if you feel you must use a barrier. I'm affraid the impervious plastic will have the same effect as tons of compact dirt. On the other hand both will inhibit deep rooting of the plants place in the new soil. If you are dealing with a tree with a fine mass of feeder roots such as maples then perhaps the mulch and container option should be considered. |
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Posted: Aug/27/2006 11:00 PM PST
Thank you, Treeman. The shortcakes are almost out of the oven! |
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Posted: Aug/28/2006 1:22 AM PST
hey Sweetle, love your lawn! LOL! |
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Posted: Aug/28/2006 2:45 AM PST
Now you know why I asked all those aeration questions! |
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Posted: Aug/28/2006 8:03 PM PST
Do the Wildebeast migrate through your yard every year Sweelebe ? |
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Posted: Aug/28/2006 8:32 PM PST
Quote: Originally posted by sweetlebee Now you know why I asked all those aeration questions!i shouldn't joke. you saw my lawn in the white garden thread. and i can only blame myself for that one. 
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