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Posted: Jul/25/2006 4:36 PM PST
  Hi does anyone have a solution to the problem of blossom end rot to my Zucchini and squash plants. For the last 2 yrs have suffered with the same issue, get a few lose most. Overwatering isn't supposed to be a problem with the planting system I am using, and fertilization should be OK.
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Posted: Jul/26/2006 1:40 AM PST
You might want to check out the stem of your plant and make sure it is blossom end rot.......Just a thought........if you see all kinds of soft granular stuff on the stem........it could be an entirely different problem.........??? Birdie |
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Posted: Jul/29/2006 10:30 AM PST
Next year, try this... I was told a few years ago, by a Nursery owner, to plant your zucchini in various places of your garden. It seems that it may get some kind of fungus, or something or other. (it's been awhile and the mind isnt what it used to be to remember things) And if it's all together, it will spread. But seperated.... it wont. |
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Posted: Jul/30/2006 12:47 PM PST
you may have a lack of calcium in your soil...which you can use Epsom salts.....otherwise known as magnesium sulfate.... has been proven to prevent blossom rot....you can mix one or two teaspoons of epsom salts to the soil when planting...... Then, once the plant begins flowering you can apply a spray of 1 tbs. epsom salts to one gallon of water liberally on the plants once per month...... then I mulch the plants with aged grass clippings....straw will also work for this.... This should be enough to prevent this problem in the future....now if you don't have a lack of calcium I found this while I was reading around ...may be of some help ..It is from the New Mexico State University Web Site... http://cahe.nmsu.edu/ces/yard/1996/070196.html< /u> Reads as follows.... Issue: July 1, 1996 -------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Squash blossom-end rot Question: I have yellow straightneck squash that get about two and one-half inches long, then get blossom-end rot. My white patty-pan squash get about two inches across and then dry up. Please tell me what causes this and what to do for it. Answer: When you read the garden books and often the news articles taken from the national news services, you will read that blossom-end rot is due to a lack of calcium. Gardeners familiar with New Mexico's soils realize that our soil is not deficient in calcium and wonder how they could get blossom-end rot. The answer is that though we have an excess of calcium, we have a deficiency of water and extremely desiccating environmental conditions. Calcium travels through the plant in the water. Dry soil, hot, dry, windy days, or anything else that prevents water from reaching all parts of the plant can limit the movement of nutrients in the plant. Hot, dry, windy days, or a brief period when the soil drys disrupts the flow of water and nutrients through the plant. When this happens, the small developing fruit loose their supply of water and calcium. As the fruit enlarges, the brief deficiency of water and calcium becomes apparent as blossom-end rot. Dr. George Dickerson, Extension Horticulture Specialist for vegetable crops, small fruits, and speciality crops, suggests that care be taken to keep the soil evenly moist and the use of mulches to reduce the evaporation of water from the soil. Be sure you don't over compensate with irrigation and keep the soil soggy - this will cause other problems. Shelter from the afternoon sun and from the drying winds can also reduce the incidence of blossom-end rot. Dr. Dickerson also said that some diseases, including curly- top virus can cause the symptoms you describe. These symptoms include fruit that fail to grow, get hard, and develop blossom- end rot. There may also be leaf symptoms that mimic 2,4-D herbicide injury. He has seen the development of these diseases in Southern New Mexico this year. Generally, when several plants are growing in a row, one or a few will be affected and be stunted compared to the others. This helps distinguish the disease symptoms from herbicide injury. |
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Posted: Jul/30/2006 1:51 PM PST
Thanks.........this is great information.........appreciate it! Birdie <>< |
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Posted: Jul/30/2006 11:47 PM PST
Hey birdie...Nice to see ya...Glad it is helpful...
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Posted: Aug/03/2006 8:40 PM PST
Another factor Excessive Nitrogen depresses the uptake of Calcium |
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Posted: Aug/10/2006 7:25 PM PST
Is blossom end rot on straight necked squash the same thing as mold? At least it looks like mold or some sort of fungus. I was just wondering if it starts out as blossom end rot and then get moldy or do I just have some sort of funky mold problem. I have only gotten to eat a few squash the rest rot before they grow very big (a few inches long). I had powdery mildew on some leaves which I cut off and threw out, but the fruit still molds on me. Anyone have this problem? It seems kind of late to do much about it. This is my first squash plant. |
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Posted: Aug/15/2006 11:46 AM PST
My squash, Zuc's & cukes got the bugs.. I was so upset. I thought I did the right stuff when I did container potting... But I couldn't seen to get rid of them, so I just put 'em all in a trash bag and they went to the trash. I have one squash plant left. I had soooooo much trouble this yr. Rain, heat, humidity and all kinds of insects. GRRRRRR!!!!!!!!! I think from now on I'll buy from the veggies stands . There R many of those here... |
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Posted: Aug/22/2006 9:38 PM PST
Mold might set in if a pod with blossom end rot has been on the vine too long |
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